B plus E Car and Trailer Tests Towing Courses and intensive Towing Courses in Bristol Taunton and Exeter Barnstaple Tiverton Devon and Bridgewater
All trailer towing courses include a B+E trailer test arranged for as soon as possible before your training. This can be one day or one week before test or the same day. Trailer Tests courses are held on Mondays and Fridays in taunton and exeter with training on Saturdays and Sundays. All the car trailer tests are held in taunton and exeter at the dvsa test centres.
It would be best to speek to rob reed about your requirements on the trailor courses held.I can fit all b plus e courses around your work so talk to Rob Reed on 0757-260 7889.
On The first day we will cover hitch unhitch and reversing,then a road drive to see your requirements.I have a online booking service to book your trailer test but its alway best to have a chat first.
Kind Regards, Rob Reed.
B+E TRAINING COURSES
B+E is an extra entitlement on your licence that allows you to tow vehicles over a set weight.
The B+E training we provide firstly consists of a short informal discussion on how the B+E test is conducted.
Our highly skilled instructors will teach you how to perform all the safety check on the vehicle to ensure it is road worthy and safe.
We will also cover aspects such as uncoupling and re-coupling of a trailer safely and provide you with all the necessary theoretical and practical guidance required to pass the B+E test which will increase your skills and confidence.
We provide intensive training that aims to develop your driving skills following the MSM PSL system of car control and all our training are provided on a one to one basis to ensure all our clients receive the appropriate level of support and guidance based on individual requirements and needs.
The B+E test consists of:
Checking your driving licence Vehicle and trailer safety questions Reversing manoeuvre Uncoupling and re-coupling of the trailer ,On road driving covering all types of roads.
ONE DAY COURSE Trailer Course
For Experienced Towers, Includes 2 Hour Lesson, Includes 5 Hours Training, Includes B+E Test. We advise having an assessment beforehand as you will take your B+E test very soon after in Exeter or Taunton depending what date you book.
Total Price: £499
Trailer towing course Advise Taunton.
TWO DAY COURSE Trailer Course
For those with a little towing experience and a reasonable standard of driving. You will have two four hour training sessions plus 1.5 hour test .on this course to practice. Includes B+E test Held in Exeter or Taunton depending on test dates.
Total Price £599
Trailer towing course Advise Exeter
Unless you're very experienced and confident, experts recommend that the weight of the loaded trailer or caravan should not be more than 85% of the car's Kerb Weight. Following a few simple rules will help you to stay safe and on right side of the law while towing this summer.
In detail the rules about towing a caravan (or trailer) can get quite technical but the principles are very simple if you want to stay safe and on the right side of the law.
You mustn't overload the car or caravan
The weight of the loaded caravan/trailer must be within the car's towing ability
The combined weight of the loaded car and loaded caravan/trailer must be below the maximum 'train' weight for the car
Tow brackets must be tested to the appropriate British or European standard and use mounting points recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
Cars registered since 1 August 1998 must only be fitted with a 'type approved' bracket tested to European Directive 94/20/EC. The bracket will have a label, plate, or stamping detailing the type approval number and the vehicle for which it is an approved fitment.
Some vehicles are not rated for towing by the vehicle manufacturer – no gross train weight will be shown on the VIN plate – and are not able to have a towbar fitted. An example is the Ford KA which has no declared train weight, and no mounting points for a tow bar.
Check with the vehicle manufacturer if you intend to tow but are unsure if the vehicle is suitable.
For tow bracket fitting we recommend using a business approved under the National Trailer & Towing Association's (NTTA) Quality Assured scheme.
Obtaining Your B+E Licence
Assuming you are one of those drivers who needs a Category B+E licence for trailer towing, we have a training package that is right for you. Our training teaches everything you need to know to pass the trailer test the first time. We utilise experienced instructors who have all towed trailers themselves, instructors who know what it takes to tow a trailer safely.
Drivers can start training with the HGV Training Centre as soon as a new class gets under way. You will be happy to know that the size of our operations – we currently operate more than four dozen facilities in the UK – allows us to begin new classes on a regular schedule. You can complete your training in as little as three days if you are a quick learner and you apply yourself.
What will you learn in our training? In the simplest terms possible, everything you need to know to pass your trailer test. You will learn:
Proper driving techniques
The physics of towing (braking, steering, accelerating)
How to conduct a walkaround check
Proper coupling and uncoupling of your trailer
Principles of adapting to bad weather and driving conditions
Techniques for manoeuvring trailers in tight spaces.
All of the things we teach you will be tested on when you take the actual trailer test. You will have to demonstrate to the examiner that you possess both the physical skills and knowledge to be a safe trailer operator. Your test will be comprised of two parts: physical skills and practical demonstration.
The physical skills portion of your test should be self-explanatory. The examiner will take you out on the road and put you through a series of tasks designed to prove you have the necessary skills. The practical demonstration portion of the test is a 'show me, tell me' exercise in which the examiner will ask you to demonstrate your knowledge through oral explanation and physical demonstration. For example, you might be asked to explain and demonstrate how to determine your trailer is coupled correctly.
Preparing for the Trailer Test
The HGV Training Centre can help you prepare for the trailer test only insofar as teaching you what you need to know and giving you the opportunity to practice your skills. There are certain requirements of the test that you will be responsible for. For example, you will need to bring with you a car and trailer combination suitable for the licence you are attempting to obtain along with your current photo card licence or your old-style paper licence and a valid passport.
If your trailer is unbraked, the maximum you may tow (combined weight of trailer and load) is 750 kg or half the kerbside weight of the towing vehicle, whichever is the lower.
Until recently UK regulations on trailer width were different to the rest of Europe – the maximum width allowed here was 2.3m compared to 2.55m across the channel.
UK rules changed from April 2010 and you are now permitted to tow a trailer or caravan up to 2.55m in width behind a car or goods vehicle weighing less than 3500kg.
Saftey questions on trailor test b plus e car and trailer courses in devon somerset taunton exeter Barnstaple and Bideford
About the questions
You’ll be asked 5 vehicle safety questions. These are also known as the ‘show me, tell me’ questions.
The examiner will ask you ‘show me’ questions, where you’ll have to show them how you’d carry out a vehicle safety check.
You’ll also be asked ‘tell me’ questions, where you’ll have to explain to the examiner how you’d carry out the check.
2. The questions
2.1 Open the bonnet, identify where the brake fluid reservoir is and tell me how you would check that you have a safe level of hydraulic brake fluid.
Identify reservoir, check level against high/low markings.
2.2 Show me how you would check that the direction indicators are working.
Applying the indicators or hazard warning switch and checking functioning of all indicators.
2.3 Tell me the main safety factors involved in loading this vehicle.
The load should be distributed evenly throughout the trailer. Heavy items should be loaded as low as possible so that they are mainly over the axle(s). Bulkier, lighter items should be distributed to give a suitable ‘nose weight’ at the towing coupling. The nose weight should never exceed the vehicle manufacturer’s specifications.
2.4 Tell me the main safety factors involved in securing a load on this vehicle.
Any load must be carried so that it does not endanger other road users. It must be securely stowed within the size and weight limits for the vehicle. The load needs to be secure so that it cannot move or fall from the vehicle when cornering or braking.
2.5 Show me how you would check that your vehicle and trailer doors are secure.
Physical checks should be made to ensure that windows, roof light and all doors, including cargo doors, are properly closed.
2.6 Tell me how you would check the tyres to ensure that they have sufficient tread depth and that their general condition is safe to use on the road.
No cuts and bulges, 1.6mm of tread depth across the central Â¾ of the breadth of the tyre and around the entire outer circumference.
2.7 Show me how you would check that the horn is working (off road only).
Check is carried out by using control (turn on ignition if necessary).
2.8 Open the bonnet, identify where you would check the engine coolant level and tell me how you would check that the engine has the correct level.
Identify high/low level markings on header tank where fitted or radiator filler cap, and describe how to top up to correct level.
2.9 Show me how you would check the parking brake for excessive wear.
Demonstrate by applying parking brake that when it is fully applied it secures itself, and is not at the end of the working travel.
2.10 Show me how you would clean the windscreen using the windscreen washer and wipers.
Operate control to wash and wipe windscreen (turn ignition on if necessary).
2.11 Show me how you would set the demister controls to clear all the windows effectively, this should include both front and rear screens.
Set all relevant controls including; fan, temperature, air direction / source and heated screen to clear windscreen and windows. Engine does not have to be started for this demonstration.
2.12 Show me how you would switch on the rear fog light(s) and explain when you would use it/them (no need to exit vehicle).
Operate switch (turn on dipped headlights and ignition if necessary). Check warning light is on. Explain use.
2.13 Show me how you switch your headlight from dipped to main beam and explain how you would know the main beam is on whilst inside the car.
Operate switch (with ignition or engine on if necessary), check with main beam warning light.
2.14 Show me how you would check that the brake lights are working on this vehicle (I can assist you, if you need to switch the ignition on, please don’t start the engine).
Operate brake pedal, make use of reflections in windows, garage doors, etc, or ask someone to help.
2.15 Tell me how you make sure your head restraint is correctly adjusted so it provides the best protection in the event of a crash.
The head restraint should be adjusted so the rigid part of the head restraint is at least as high as the eye or top of the ears, and as close to the back of the head as is comfortable. Some restraints might not be adjustable.
Why are some trailers stable while others wander How to Load Trailer
There are dozens of factors related to towing stability. No one factor is an absolute for making a trailer stable, or not, but they all have an affect. Here are a few of the most common things to look for:
Poor Load Distribution
An extreme example of poor load distribution.
Load distribution is the most common cause of stability concerns -- and the easiest to correct.
First, the trailer load should always be reasonably distributed from side to side. Don't put a lot more weight on one side or the other. Center the load on the trailer as much as possible.
Secondly, load the trailer front to back with at least 10% of the trailer weight on the hitch. With typical trailers, more weight on the hitch is better for stability. 15% is usually a good number. To illustrate, 5th wheel trailers have much more weight on the hitch, and they tend to be pretty stable. The extreme example is over-the-road trucks. They carry up to 50% of the load at the front.
Third, (hopefully this is common sense) secure the load properly. If the load shifts, the load distribution has changed, probably in a manner that is not helpful. Always make sure the load is secure.
Load distribution extends beyond just how a load is put in a trailer. When a trailer is hitched to a tow vehicle, they become a system and the dynamics of the system are what makes stability (or not).
For the tow vehicle, "Motor Boating" is a big stability concern. A large weight on the hitch -- at the rear of the vehicle -- can make the back of the tow vehicle sag, and the front rise. When this condition is significant, it will adversely affect stability, driveability and control because weight is lifted off the steering wheels. To correct this problem, load distributing hitches can be used to level the trailer with respect to the tow vehicle. A sample is shown below. These hitches can make a big difference -- especially when trailer size and/or weight is near or exceeds that of the tow vehicle.
Note: Before using a load distributing hitch, make sure the tow vehicle, hitch and coupler can handle it.
Load Distributing Hitch
A load distributing hitch example from reese-hitches.com
Usually if a Damper (like a big shock absorber between the trailer and the tow vehicle) is needed there are other, perhaps fundamental, issues that should be addressed first. A trailer properly configured and properly loaded should not need a damper -- though in a pinch, they can help. (Note: One is shown in the photo above.)
Trailer length and length with respect to width is another stability factor. Longer trailers typically tow better -- or more accurately, a greater separation between the rear most wheels of the tow vehicle and the fore most wheels of the trailer. A long tongue (as discussed in the Strength section) can facilitate such separation. Evaluate trailer length in the context of width. Look at the width of the trailer with respect to the tow vehicle and with respect to length (or more accurately, with respect to separation of the axles). In general, the wider the trailer, the more it will benefit from length.
Another length factor is the distance between the rear wheels of the tow vehicle and the hitch point. When this distance is shorter, the trailer can't "wag" the tow vehicle as much, nor do the "bumps" of the tow vehicle affect the trailer as much. Fifth wheel trailers are a good example. Finally, a hitch at the back of a really long overhang (like the back of a school bus) will have a negative effect on stability. Extend-a-hitch bars that push the hitch point back with respect to the rear most wheels of the tow vehicle are a similar bad example.
A couple of Axle and Wheel related items:
First, use a trailer axle - an axle made for a trailer. The wheels on a proper trailer axle have just a little camber to them -- which greatly enhances tracking.
Next, Axle alignment with respect to the pull direction is very important. The axle(s) should be perpendicular to the direction of pull -- and perhaps more important, if more than one axle is used, they must be parallel. (This condition is easy to see from behind the trailer on the highway -- because the trailer follows a little to the side of the tow vehicle.)
>> This condition is not only less stable, it also wears out tires prematurely and wastes fuel. <<
Finally, Wheels and tires should be in good condition. I can't tell you how many wobbly (bent) rims I have seen on trailers going down the highway. The wobble may come from a bent rim, or from a wheel that is not attached properly. Either way, it causes problems with stability -- and safety.
Tires should be properly inflated. Inflation pressure will vary depending on conditions, tire type, load, etc.. When the trailer is to be pulled a long distance empty, or without significant load, tire pressure should be reduced -- perhaps as low as 10 or 15 psi. This allows the tires to soak up more of the road inconsistencies, and the tires become a damper to keep the trailer from bouncing around. When the trailer is loaded, the inflation pressure should be increased per the tire manufacturers recommendations.
Though not a specific stability concern (until there is a blow-out) Dry Rot on Trailer Tires is one of the most common causes of trailer tire failures - and when a tire blows, it's a big stability AND SAFETY concern!! It's a horrible way to interrupt your trip, so carefully check the tires before traveling.